Meanwhile, Dustin and Annie arrived by boat from their trip – they were tired but very pleased with the trek. Our chalet was a good place for the four of us to gather and eat, while the hotel kitchen provided a stove to bake a ham and the burners and cooking utensils for a nice Christmas dinner and breakfast the next day. |
2011 Annie and Dustin arrive at Milford Sound by boat
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This was lucky, because in New Zealand, nothing is open in Christmas Day. Well, an occasional gas station might be open, and restaurants might be open for a noon meal. But there certainly would be no grocery shopping on Christmas day, so what could we feed the weary travelers after we picked them up at Queenstown airport? This dilemma led me to call ahead a few days earlier to a restaurant in Glenorchy, the small town beyond Queenstown where we had rented a house for three days. Could you possibly feed 8 hungry travelers the evening of Christmas Day? Eight? That sounded like enough for them to extend their hours a bit, and we promised to head directly from the airport to their restaurant so they wouldn’t have to stay open too late.
December 25
On Christmas Day we headed back to Queenstown, stopping in Te Anau at the one gas station on our route that was open on Christmas afternoon. We had lunch on the beach of Lake Te Anau, apparently a New Zealand tradition. We got to the Queenstown airport just in time to see the plane carrying the Gilberts come in for a landing. But it was an hour before they appeared through the customs door, minus Becca’s suitcase, which Virgin Australia had left behind at LAX.
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| 2011 Brian, Andrea, Karen and Becca arrive at the Queenstown Airport. |
We headed through Queenstown and on to Glenorchy along Lake Wakatipu, a longer drive than I had anticipated, but we arrived at the restaurant in time to find a table for eight set up awaiting us. Christmas dinner was a great celebration, although Becca was a bit concerned about spending another day or two in her airplane clothes.
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2011 The road from Queenstown to Glenorchy runs along the beautiful Lake Wakatipu.
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Next we headed for the house we had rented, and what a pleasant surprise! An absolutely wonderful house awaited us: it had a huge great room with floor to ceiling glass windows on two sides, looking out toward stunning mountain views; vaulted beam ceilings; huge kitchen with two sinks and all the equipment one could possibly need for cooking; four nice bedrooms including one with a private bathroom. The sun sets late in New Zealand around Christmas - it didn't get dark until 10 pm in Glenorchy. But everyone was tired so bedtime came before sunset.
December 26
We all awoke surprised, really, to find our family together in Southern New Zealand for Christmas. This was Boxing day, and for us that meant that the clothes we needed to buy for Becca were on sale. At least her suitcase had been found, but it was going to arrive in Queenstown two days after she did. We also stocked up on groceries, and while we were exploring Glenorchy, we signed Andrea and Becca up for a jet boat/canoe trip the next day. Karen was already scheduled for rock climbing and Brian would go with her. Annie and Dustin had reservations to start out on the Routeburn Track.
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2011 Mary, Andrea, Karen, Becca, and Dustin at our beautiful house in Glenorchy, New Zealand.
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December 27
Tom and I drove Dustin and Annie to the trailhead and walked a while with them on the Routeburn Track. Then we drove to Paradise and marveled at the massive dust storm being kicked up by a strong wind from the Tasman Sea to the west. Nearby, Andy and Becca were struggling to get their inflatable canoe down the Dart River. Becca took a serious plunge into the water, and eventually the guide had four canoes connect together into a single raft. With Andy using her strong paddling skills and the guide giving the other participants instructions in German, they found their way down the river to Paradise where they were picked up by their bus and taken back to Glenorchy.
In Queenstown, Karen was having a good climb, although they had left their cameras behind. Then she and Brian stopped at the airport and retrieved Becca’s suitcase.
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| 2011 Dustin and Annie with Tom and Mary at the beginning of the Routeburn Track. |
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| 2011 Andrea on the Dart River Trip |
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| 2011 Becca on the Dart River Trip |
After a great barbeque, Tom, Mary. Brian and Karen took a lovely walk around a picturesque lagoon west of Glenorchy where they saw black swans (a common sight in Australia and New Zealand). When we got back to the house, Andy and Becca were fast asleep, exhausted from their adventure on the Dart River.
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| 2011 Karen and Brian at the Glenorchy Lagoon |
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Black Swan at at the Glenorchy Lagoon
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December 28
The next day we moved to a cottage in Te Anau where we would be picking up Dustin and Annie the next day. (A 20 mile hike over the mountains was a 250 mile drive for a car.) The weather was cloudy and threatening - in fact, on the Routeburn Track it was rainy as Dustin and Annie climbed up Conical Hill to what was supposed to be a stunning view. It was here that Dustin had planned to propose to Annie - not realizing they would have the worst weather of the entire trip at the top. Dustin started a video on a tripod and proposed. The wind blew the camera down, but Annie said YES!
December 29
Tom picked up the newly engaged couple at noon and stopped in town to check email (there was no internet at the cottage). It was December 28 in Milwaukee and Tom learned that his mother had taken a turn for the worse that day. Tom passed on the news about Dustin's engagement and heard that his father was pleased.
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| 2011 Dustin and Annie point to the spot on the Routeburn Track where they were engaged. |
After Dustin and Annie checked into their cottage we had a picnic where they announced their engagement to the rest of the family. Then Annie joined Karen and Becca jumping on the cottage trampoline - but after a high jump, Annie broke through the trampoline net. (She was not hurt.)
December 30
We took a tour that started with a boat trip on Lake Manapouri to the end of the West Arm. Here the Manapouri Hydro Power Station produces 14% of New Zealand's power with turbines driven by water dropping almost 600 feet to the sea level of Doubtful Sound. After a tour of the power station, we took a boat trip on Doubtful Sound to the ocean, enjoying clear skies and beautiful scenery.
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2011 Karen, Annie, Becca and Dustin enjoy a boat trip across Lake Manapouri
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2011 Tom and Mary with Doubtful Sound in the background, New Zealand
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2011 Turbines in the Manapouri Hydro Power Station between Manapouri Lake and Doubtful Sound
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2011 The west end of Doubtful Sound at the Tasman Sea
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December 31
New Year's Eve started out with the very sad news that Tom's mother stopped breathing early in the morning on December 30 (Milwaukee tome). Since it was not practical or useful to consider an immediate return to the US, we continued our trip, driving east across the southern tip of New Zealand to Purakaunui Falls and the nearby Greenwood Farmstay. There we were able to visit the seashore where everyone had a chance to see penguins - for the first time in many cases.
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| 2011 Brian, Karen, Andrea and Becca at Purakaunui Falls in southern New Zealand |
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| 2011 Penguin at the Greenwood Farmstay Beach |
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| 2011 Penguin Chick |
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2011 Penguins at the Greenwood Farmstay Beach, New Zealand
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January 1, 2012
We drove north past Lake Hawea and the Cameron Flats to the Haast Coast, where Andrea found an open jewelry store and helped Dustin get a ring for Annie. We stopped at Lake Matheson at sunset to catch views of Mount Cook, then spent two nights at a hotel near Franz Joseph Glacier.
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| 2011 Mount Cook, west coast of New Zealand |
January 2
We spent the day exploring Franz Joseph Glacier, where Karen, Becca and Annie found some good rocks to climb.
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| 2011 Karen and Becca near Franz Joseph Glacier |
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| 2011 Karen and Becca resting from their climb. |
January 3
We drove north along the west coast of New Zealand to the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, where the sunny weather and interesting scenery provided plenty of photo opportunities.
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2011 Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, west coast of New Zealand
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Then we went to Underworld Adventures for an underground float trip followed by tubing down rapids. We spent the night at nearby Cape Foulwind.
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2011 Becca enjoying rapids on Underground Adventures float trip, west coast, New Zealand
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January 4 |
| Dustin and Annie play Frisbee on the Cape Foulwind Beach, west coast New Zealand |
After enjoying the beach at Cape Foulwind, we drove to Abel Tasmin National Park, where we met Henrik and Sophia Kniberg and their four children. They were visiting New Zealand on a Round-the-World trip, and we managed to synchronize our schedules for a day.
January 5
We took a sunny boat ride and hike with the Knibergs and almost missed the boat ride back. Meanwhile Dustin and Annie had a wonderful time on a tour that included kayaking and photography..
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| 2011 Cormorants preening along the shore at Abel Tasmin National Park, New Zealand |
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| 2011 A lazy seal along the shore of Abel Tasmin National Park, New Zealand |
January 6
Today a long drive took us to Christchurch, where we spent the night before everyone had a morning flight home. Christchurch was still experiencing aftershocks from the earthquake that had devastated the city almost a year earlier. Three days after we left for Queenstown there had been significant aftershocks in Christchurch and a minor aftershock occurred while we were in the hotel.
January 7
Air travel was normal despite the aftershocks and all parties made it back to the US as planned, gaining an extra day as they traveled over the dateline. There was just enough time for everyone to travel to Milwaukee for Ruth Poppendieck's funeral.